A fitted sleeveless vest with a structural shoulder ridge
Penumbra is worked from the bottom up in the round to the underarm, then shaped flat through the armhole and neck. The back shoulders extend past the neck shaping, travelling over the top of the shoulder and down the front face — joined with a three-needle bind-off that leaves a clean, deliberate ridge visible on the front. Wide 1×1 twisted ribbing at the hem draws in at the hip. Knitted at zero ease, it sits close to the body and layers beautifully over a shirt or under a coat.
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Bottom-up, seamless — no sewing required
Cast on and work 17 cm of twisted 1×1 rib for the hem. Switch to stockinette and work in the round to the underarm. Both front and back are identical at this stage.
Bind off underarm stitches to separate front and back. Each piece is now worked flat. Armhole shaping gives the opening its final form with bind-offs and decrease rows.
Back neck is shaped first. The back shoulders extend over the top and down the front face. Front neck is shaped separately. The shoulder ridge is created with a three-needle bind-off on the RS.
Pick up the neckband and armhole bands in twisted rib. Finish each with an Italian bind-off for a seamless, stretchy edge. Wet block to finished measurements.
Penumbra is worked at zero ease — the finished bust measurement matches your actual chest measurement. All sizes are cropped, with total lengths from 40–54 cm. If you prefer a slightly more relaxed fit, go up one size.
| Size | Bust (cm) | Length (cm) | Armhole (cm) | Yarn needed |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS 32¼" | 82 | 40 | 19 | ~250 g |
| S 35" | 89 | 42 | 20 | ~275 g |
| M 37¾" | 96 | 45 | 21 | ~300 g |
| L 39½" | 100 | 48 | 22 | ~325 g |
| XL 43" | 109 | 50 | 23 | ~360 g |
| 2XL 45½" | 116 | 52 | 24 | ~395 g |
| 3XL 49" | 124 | 54 | 25 | ~430 g |
Knitting for Olive Heavy Merino — 100% merino, 200 m / 100 g. Exceptional stitch definition, beautiful drape, and an outstanding natural colour range. This is what the sample is knitted in.
Any 100% merino or merino-blend worsted at approximately 200 m / 100 g. Look for good stitch definition — avoid very fluffy or loosely plied yarns which soften the twisted rib texture.
A cashmere-merino blend in worsted weight gives exceptional softness and a beautiful subtle sheen. Requires gentle hand washing and careful blocking.
Video guides for the key techniques in this pattern
How to work k1tbl and p1tbl flat and in the round — the technique used throughout the hem, neckband, and armhole bands.
Video coming soon
Working the RS ridge that defines Penumbra — holding the needles, orientation, and how the ridge appears on the front of the garment.
Video coming soon
The seamless, stretchy finish used on the hem and armhole bands. Step-by-step instructions are also included in full in the pattern PDF.
Video coming soon
How to block a fitted vest — soaking, pinning to measurements, and how the twisted rib hem and shoulder ridge look after blocking.
Video coming soon